Single Evening Tasting, London: Christmas Treat 2019
9 December @ 6:45 pm - 9:00 pm
NV Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs
2002 Dom Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs (Magnum)
2016 Puligny-Montrachet (Olivier Leflaive)
2010 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Perrières (François Carillon)
2001 Château Clinet, Pomerol (Magnum)
2001 Château Pape-Clément, Péssac-Léognan (Magnum)
2004 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
1998 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Magnum)
1994 Quinta do Vesuvio, Vintage Port
9 wines, and canapés ………… £159.00
The Christmas do with, as usual, Monika’s delicious canapés.
On first tasting the 2002 Dom Ruinart in 2012 I noted: “This fulfils one’s expectations of a great Champagne in a great year. Absolutely top notch, really complete wine. Years of life, one would think.” It should still be pretty impressive from magnum, and the NV Ruinart Blanc de Blancs is no slouch either! As many of you will know, I think Olivier Leflaive is increasingly making white burgundy to vie with the very top names of the region, and his 2016 Village Puligny is an especially good example. Next to Referts and Combettes, Puligny’s Perrières is less well known than Meursault’s, but François Carillon‘s is a fine, racy example of a mature 1er Cru.
2001 in Bordeaux suffers somewhat in the shadow of 2000, but many Right Bank wines are even better in 2001 than in the previous year, and it was notably successful in Pessac-Léognan. 2001 Clinet is tasting beautifully now, wonderfully perfumed, and unusual in being 100% Merlot (“Our Cabernets really just weren’t any good” observes owner Ronan Laborde); and the 2001 Pape Clément, having absorbed its new oak, is a rich, generous, elegant claret. At eighteen years, both are at the start of a very satisfying drinking plateau.
Vieux Télégraphe is classic, unmessed about with Châteauneuf – two thirds Grenache, old foudres ageing ….. 2004 is a beautifully balanced mid weight year which produced lovely wines, and the great, powerful, structured 1998‘s are finally ‘yielding’ into an impressive and gratifying maturity. This magnum has been sitting unmoved in our cellar for almost as long as it is old.
Finally, 1994 Vesuvio is one of the top wines of a great Port year, just starting to be fully mature at twenty five years of age. In the vintage port context I think of it as ‘Margauxesque’, but effortlessy classy and complete in its more restrained, Single Quinta style.
The wines range in retail cost from around £50 to £150+ a bottle