The Christmas do,with Monika’s delicious canapés and eight fine, dinner party wines. The outstanding 2002 Bollinger to start with, a superb twenty year old Auslese Riesling to finish up with, and in between three seductive Old World – New World Pairs. Wines ranging in price from £40 to £200 a bottle.
Sandro Mosele, long time winemaker at Kooyong, described his 2010 Mornington Peninsula Farrago Chardonnay as “Like Grand Cru Chablis. Delicate, fine and good.” Indeed. So it seems absolutely appropriate to put it next to an exceptional vintage of Grand Cru Chablis, 2008 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir (Domaine William Fèvre) for an interesting, classy comparison of two fine Chardonnays in early maturity.
Here are two wines, both in full maturity, a pure Cabernet from Australia, 1997 Mosswood Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Cabernet-Merlot blend from Bordeaux, 1995 Léoville Barton, 2nd Growth St Julien. Mosswood has been making elegant, tasty, benchmark Margaret River Cabernet for thirty five years, and Léoville Barton is, year in year out, one of St Julien’s top, and top value clarets. This should be a lovely comparative pair.
For many years Australia’s finest Pinot Noirs have come from Victoria’s Mornington Peninsular, and they have become increasingly pure and refined as understanding of the grape / locale / winemaking combination has deepened. Ten Minutes by Tractor’s McCutcheon is its top single vineyard Pinot, and the 2009 McCutcheon Pinot Noir is a particularly refined and delicate expression of the grape, a perfect ‘Premier Cru’ preface to the 1999 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru. A great red Burgundy in a great vintage – concentration, class, grace, complexity and Grand Cru resonanance.
Our final wine is an intense, exquisitely delicate, vital and racy Riesling Auslese from one of the middle Mosel’s top vineyards, and one of the grape’s finest exponents. I am not normally a proponent of German ausleses as ‘dessert’ wines, but the 1995 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese Fuder 19 (Fritz Haag) has an intensity of flavour which goes perfectly with a subtle fruit sponge. We have tried it!
2002 Bollinger Grande Année in Magnum
2010 Kooyong, Mornington Peninsula Farrago Chardonnay; Victoria, Australia
2008 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir (Domaine William Fèvre); France
1997 Mosswood, Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon; Western Australia
1995 Léoville Barton, 2nd Growth St Julien; Bordeaux, France
2009 Ten Minutes by Tractor, Mornington Peninsula McCutcheon Pinot Noir; Victoria, Australia
1999 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru; Burgundy, France
1995 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese Fuder 19 (Fritz Haag); Mosel, Germany
8 wines and Canapés ...... £143.00