2008 Armand Rousseau
All course & tasting evenings take place at Bordeaux Index:
Jasper Morris in his splendid Burgundy tome says of Domaine Armand Rousseau: “This is one of Burgundy’s greatest domains any way you want to look at it – in history, in holdings, in quality of wine.” Few are going to quarrel with that.
This is a rare opportunity to taste next to each other all nine crus wines made by Rousseau: six Grands Crus, three Premiers Crus, plus his village Gevrey-Chambertin. 2008 is a fine red Burgundy vintage without being a great one - and none the worse for that! Its white wines were deservedly celebrated early on, its reds have probably been generally undervalued. My brief summary of the 2008 reds, in February 2010 read: “Good reds, where the best have a lovely combination of delicacy, transparency, and sweet ‘core’ fruit. They don’t have the marked, long term tannic structure of 2005 at one extreme, or the easy, early charm of 2007 at the other. But where they are sweetly ripe, they also have a wonderful freshness, purity and definition”.
And this was pretty much what I noted for the three top Rousseau wines that I tasted at the time:
2008 Clos St-Jacques – “a relatively rich wine in the vintage with a dense, ripe red fruit .....”;
2008 Charmes-Chambertin – “Subtle, spicy, scented flavour, with a lovely sweetness, long and gentle .... lovely wine.”;
2008 Chambertin – “generous middleweight, rich in the context of the vintage....sweet in fruit, a fresh, subtle, complex wine with great scope and class behind its muscularity...”
I think we can be assured of a most rewarding tasting, as well as a fascinating look at Burgundy’s notion of terroir in terms of both style and quality calibration. Best examined with wines made by the same hand, in the same year, as here. These wines currently retail for between £60 (Gevrey-Chambertin) and £660 (Chambertin)!
2008 Chambertin, Grand Cru
2008 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru
2008 Mazis-Chambertin, Grand Cru
2008 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes, Grand Cru
2008 Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru
2008 Clos de La Roche, Grand Cru
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St-Jacques
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers
2008 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St-Jacques
10 Wines, cheeses ....... £199